Holy Thursday in Sorrento
We were sitting in a cafe on our first evening, eating pizza, when we noticed a crowd gathering in the square. They were waiting on the traditional Holy Thursday processional. Here’s an explanation from the Sorrento Insider website:
Holy Week processions on the Sorrentine peninsula are ritual marches of hooded penitents and clergy who walk slowly down the main streets of town as tribute of the Passion of Jesus Christ.
Each procession is generally organized by a historic "confraternita", or Catholic religious brotherhood and fraternity based around a specific church or parish. Every town on the peninsula is home to a number of different fraternities, so there are generally a variety of processions during Holy Week.
Processions can vary as to the color of the symbolic hooded costumes, times they are held, and music or chanting that may accompany them. Processions usually carry misteri, or symbol of the crucifixion, including nails, shroud, small purse containing Judas' 30 coins, or basin symbolizing the washing of Pontius Pilate's hands. Each procession is also lit by torch or lamplights, and include statues of Christ or the Virgin Mary, incense burners, and choruses singing hymns or chanting prayers.
All processions include a Miserere chorus, with male voices singing a capella, usually a Gregorian composition, at the end of the procession; at the beginning of the procession, there is usually a children's or female chorus accompanied by instruments.
The hoods have a complicated history - they were used during the Inquisition as a public punishment - but are considered a tradition to deflect any attention from the individual penitent, keeping the focus on God.
It was a solemn procession, even if it did take place in a square surrounded by busy bars and restaurants. I was not the only person who left a table to get some photos!